Florio's Palace

The flat plain, which constitutes about half of Favignana’s 19 km2, is ideal in area and in gradient for exploring by bicycle, which can be rented from any of at least four enterprising Favignanesi in the town centre. Ever visible from the flat areas of Favignana is the mountain of Santa Caterina, which is topped by an old prison but is otherwise entirely bare. While the town has its own sandy beach, a series of others can be reached after a short bike ride (or shorter drive) to the South coast, including Lido Burrone which boasts several facilities and a bar. Also popular for bathing are the spectacular coves that have been carved in the tufa area of the island. The incredible Cala Rossa is probably best known due to the circumstances under which it gained its name, but Cala Azzurra (a small sandy beach) and Bue Marino also feature breathtaking descents to the water’s edge and an underwater world so rich that it is imperative you bring your mask and snorkel. As their names suggest, the water is an extremely rich shade of blue and this contrasts beautifully with the lighter stone that frames the coves.

Cala Rossa's beautiful tones of blue

The coastline around Favignana is pocked with caves, and the stretch from the tufa mines on the eastern tip to the town in the centre is of particular archaeological interest around Punta San Nicola. The caves here bear inscriptions as a legacy to their human inhabitation that dates back to Palaeolithic times, and they were inhabited right up to the 18th century. Nowadays most islanders live in the town of Favignana, whose old centre features a network of narrow streets entangled around two piazzas. Piazza Madrice sits in front of the imposing church, and variously acts as a terrace for restaurants, gelaterias and bars, a play area for the island’s children, an arena for town festivities and a parking area for cars and bicycles.

Rugged coast at Bue Marino

Palazzo Florio overlooks the harbour

The roads leading off Piazza Madrice contain many useful amenities - minimarkets, pharmacies, boutiques, vehicle hire and offices dedicated to organising excursions - and many lead to the town’s second focal point, Piazza Europa. This square is dominated by a large statue of Ignazio Florio, the inventor of canned tuna who bought and developed the Egadi islands in 1874. Florio was (and is) a major brand of the Marsala fortified wine by the same name and the family’s grand palace is situated behind the town hall on Piazza Europa. The tonnara Florio is the last remaining tuna fishery of the 50 that existed a century ago and used to process the fish caught during the mattanza. This ancient ritual (that still takes place today) involves funnelling tuna through a series of nets until they reach the death chamber, whose rising floor elevates the fish to a brutal arena overseen by an almost sacred ‘Rais’ and chanting fishermen. By now the fish are tightly packed above a shallow net and it is possible for the ‘tonnaroti’ to slaughter the male fish with their harpoons.

The abandoned prison on Monte Santa Caterina

Fishing boats in Favignana's harbour

The town hall in Piazza Europa

An obvious consequence of this violent, almost religious, ceremony is that the island (and region) boasts excellent quality tuna and an infinite number of ways to consume the fish and their by-products. ‘Canned’ fish should not be avoided because in Sicily it refers to delicious fillets of tuna inside an olive oil filled jar - such delicacies can be purchased in dedicated shops around the centre of Favignana.

Fishermen sell their catch as
soon as they return to harbour

The island’s port is in the heart of Favignana town and is probably the liveliest place on the entire island. On the jetty, next to the small harbour crammed with fishing boats, fishermen compete to attract buyers to their freshly caught fish. Watching these men cry out from their little wooden carts to a scrum of potential customers, it can be difficult to recall what century one is in. Fortunately, the sight of a hydrofoil or ferry is frequently on hand to jog one’s memory and these keep Favignana better connected than the other Egadi islands. Crossings to Trapani and Marsala can take as little as 20 minutes and cost just 5e60, making the island a popular day trip for people staying in the West of Sicily.